Painting Techniques and Tools

Benefit From These Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a 4 article series on painting tools and techniques. Here in the first article I will examine masking and protective gear. Later in article 2 I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in part three I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in the last article we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides within the last 10 years. Today there's an instrument for practically every situation. Even I'm impressed by the impressive devices coming on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, which have resolved a messy problem.

Before you commence your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You will most probably need to stock up on several items. Make an entire list of what you need. Look out for tools that save time and labor. The more expensive equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

Finding Protective Gear

Some people don't believe it's necessary to wear safety gear when they're painting. I assume they think it's wimpy. But I've worked around enough toxic substances to comprehend how dangerous they could be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors impact the lungs very quickly, and skin pores are an open target for solvents and dust borne allergens. Don't be foolish... protect yourself.

Proven Respirators

A particle mask is better than almost nothing, but it generally does not form a good seal and it won't filter all the dust. In the event that you do use a particle mask, get one with dual elastic bands. A damp handkerchief tied around a person’s face gives better security than particle masks that use lightweight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators will be the safest solution. They'll provide you with the protection you'll need for many vapors, mist, and dust. Respirators come in three sizes. Make sure that yours fits. If it doesn't fit well, it won't work very well. Checking the fit of any respirator is similar to testing the seal of your diving mask. Breathe in then keep your hand over the side valves. The mask fits if it presses against the face and stays there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually include replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different pollutants; be sure you are using the right filtration for the job. Make sure to read the instructions, and remember that you should change the cartridges if respiration becomes hard or if you start detecting vapors.

Learn About Protective Clothing

Respirators do a good job of protecting your lungs, nevertheless, you need to protect the remainder of your body as well. Having been certified in lead abatement, I understand that your body can only just eliminate an extremely small ratio of lead, even more than a 30 year span. Many painters make the mistake of believing that a little exposure to particles or VOCs won't injure them, but everything adds up as time passes. I usually dress for safety, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the work site. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and provides good protection. The excess layer is somewhat warm, but I'd rather wear a paint suit than be covered with dirt or overspray (on a hot day be sure to drink a lot of water to prevent dehydration). In the event that you choose never to wear a painting suit, wear clothes that you will not mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I more often than not wear leather gloves, even though I'm brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I take two pairs of gloves if I'm painting more than one color, to ensure I don't contaminate the colors. Industrial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to wash out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open, mix, and strain paints; and to handle toxins such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere wardrobe are safety glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust, and spray mist out of my eyes, and, if I'm spraying, a hood. In the event that you spray without a hood, be prepared to spend plenty of time washing paint out of your hair.

Secrets To Masking

Usually the room you're painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save your day. Even if you are only painting one inside home window, masking the floor may be beneficial. Having an open can of paint makes me stressed if there isn't a drop cloth on the floor. I've learned the hard way. Masking becomes even more essential if you are staining, because stain spatters everywhere. A few simple items can help you save a lot of touch up, cleaning up, and struggling to get paint out of the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally quit and admitted that my technique wasn't perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I should have. Touching up is a fact of painting life, but these days I do significantly less of it because I take the time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy cloth is definitely best, but drop cloths need not be expensive, professional painter's cloths. You can sometimes find rather large drapes at thrift stores, for the price of one thin plastic drop cloth. Look for drapes with vinyl backing, for added waterproofing. I pull out the top stitching for an extra 3 inches of cloth.

The difficulty with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Plastic material works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (like the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie together with the clear plastic. If I'm painting a sizable new home and I need to mask the complete floor, the plastic material/newspaper masking system is inexpensive and is effective.

An excellent masking system is critical whether you're brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you need is masking tape, newspaper for the outer edge of the floor and baseboard, and a skinny layer of clear plastic for the home windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system which includes special painter's tape and dispensers with pre-taped plastic. If you've ever spent time scraping tape adhesive off windows, you can appreciate superior masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers can be found at professional painting retailers and sometimes at rental shops. In case a commercial dispenser is hard to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to carry the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on glass windows and smooth surfaces. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don't leave tape on for longer than 24 hours or it'll be hard to pull off.

Facts About Masking Floors

In addition to masking off the main areas to be painted, it's also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you intend to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the required drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with vacuum cleaner, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a good seal. While you mask, concentrate on obtaining a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is firmly attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are suitable for masking off the outer edge of a room. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I use shorter pieces of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I prefer going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the number of seams that should be taped. After the perimeter is in place, I take advantage of drop cloths for the rest of the floor. For greater protection, I always substantially overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On corners I also double the cloth to the inside, for extra safety and stability.

Obtaining a tight seal with a drop cloth is critical if you are spraying an area, but safeguarding carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is an excellent plan even if you are just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it is not taped where it lies, and you'll end up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

About Masking Walls And Fixtures

No matter how you intend to apply the paint, you'll need to mask permanent fixtures including the ceiling lights, fans, and door knobs. Even if you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the fixtures that aren't masked is frustrating, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask accessories, pull off enough paper and tape to cover the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspaper also makes a good masking material for accessories). If possible, release the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a smooth border.

The amount of masking that you should do depends on the type of house painting you will be doing. The sole time the wall surfaces have to be masked is when you plan to spray the ceiling and you will need to keep the walls dry, for instance, if the ceiling is getting some other color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you intend to paint only the wall space and ceiling, it's wise to mask all over the trim, especially the windowsills.

Learn How To Mask Windows

Really the only time I mask windows is once I plan to spray. Taping glass windows isn't quite effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really adhering to glass.

For interior or outdoor windows, I take advantage of the same system for masking surfaces. Really the only difference is the fact masking glass windows usually is faster than masking whole walls. Masking glass windows and wall surfaces is usually done with clear plastic, which lets light in to the room and it is useful for covering large areas (paper is most beneficial for masking floors and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out across the home window, cut as straight of a line as possible, and tape the perimeter of the windowpane. Then it's simply a matter of sticking the clear plastic onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also is effective to protect windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To safeguard house windows, apply masking paper over the top of the window casing. The width of the paper is enough to block the majority of the roller spatter. This same strategy protects the floor and molding. If you're self-assured about your brushing and rolling abilities use 1 ½ inch masking tape instead of masking paper.

Guide To Masking For Spraying

Spraying needs that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such extensive masking, wait to mask until you're prepared to spray. Outside surface spraying might require extensive masking, depending on amount of colors and whether there are surrounding structures such as fences and power lines. When masking for spray, be sure you be thorough. Overspray is hard to regulate, especially under windy conditions. The greater you've prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is a lot less than the time you would have spent touching up afterward. A good seal with masking tape is critical because sprayed paint gets all over the place. Overspray is similar to the occasional drip from a brush every so often... one is certain to get away from you, no matter how careful you are. But you can reduce overspray by double checking before you spray.

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Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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THE PURPOSE OF STAINS AND PAINTS PART II

FEATURES OF PAINTS AND STAINS - PART TWO

This is part two of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Take The Headache Out of Finding Interior Paints Coatings for Each Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it would last longer. It may last longer, but as I then found out when I needed to touch up the ceiling only two years later, exterior paints will discolor on an interior surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outside. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry out to a durable, uniform finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. In fact, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: durability and elasticity, as well as ease of use, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, including the Pristine collection made by Benjamin Moore, are created without VOCs at all. Today's latexes are made with higher quality pigments and binders that provide them more body, so each goes on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a bit of popularity for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds continue to be the professionals' choice for trim work because oil based paints are better to paint on detailed surfaces like molding and trim. However, that traditional school of thought is slowly changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, come on the market.

Take The Headache Out of Finding Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture is an important consideration for exterior paint selection. Every day a family of four will create several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Coupled with naturally occurring humidity, this can mean a lot of moisture moving through the wall surfaces and siding. Wetness is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, moisture will migrate through the walls. Vapor barriers help contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to leave. The structure of a home, the sort of vapor barrier it has, ventilation, and dampness all make choosing the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you require a paint that will let moisture pass through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let water pass through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with areas that expand and contract, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I favor using latex on all exterior surface areas, including wood siding, stucco, and cement. Latexes avoid fading better than most oil-based paints, and they'll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go on top of an alkyd primer).

Latexes do a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always stay well. For greatest durability, I recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that will provide superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that needs to be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only needs water. Thinners add yet another expense, are hard to get rid of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, no matter how careful I am.

Solution For Staining Inside

You could spend a life time learning about stains and sealers, but there's nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in determining which stain to work with is to become acquainted with the products available. Scan the label, along with any product information you can get, and talk to the personnel at a professional paint shop.

Exterior stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint and even more solvents, providing them with better wood penetration. Waterproofing is a priority with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to add sturdiness and help maintain the wood. The coloring in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface covering. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That is why a pigmented stain is often used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to bring out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, that are simpler to apply, blend, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you're looking for darker results, a dyed stain provides what you want in one overcoat (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will need touching up, so make certain to consider the ease of maintenance in your selection of stains. You'll receive the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to stay away from the watery nature of stains, try a gel stain, which had almost all of the liquid solvent removed. Gels are simple to use. They spread on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Since they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a great choice for porous woods that are troublesome to cover evenly without a toner. Gel stains do a excellent job of bringing out the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend working with them for hardwoods, which need a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

How We Improved Our Painting With Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You should use them under clear coats or over stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not made to prime. They're more like varnish, but diluted with solvents to allow better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers stops them from soaking in to the wood pores. Sanding sealer provides a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs are often put into sanding sealers to fortify the resin and provide an instant drying agent. In addition they add an amber tone, so if you're utilizing a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it will not have an impact on the stain. Shellacs have a tendency to yellow aver time and contain toluene, which has a high VOC content. Shellacs are gradually offering ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers also have high VOCs, although less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow drying alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac named Rez 77-1. This particular primer/sealer is good for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has very low VOCs, but is purely for interior wood and must not be used under a water borne polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be used to seal exterior wood, especially decking, which is continually subjected to sun and water. For color reliability in areas like decks, you need to completely coat, or back prime, the lumber before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, and most top quality deck stains are great water repellent sealers that can also be used for priming exterior wood.

Improved Wood and Stain Sealers for Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are put into the stain itself, applied as a top coat over a stain, or used as a clear coat on unstained wood trim. They can be used for any type of wood trim, including windows, entry doors, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they have a tendency to yellow, are difficult to keep up, and don't endure as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that can be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to completely clean and keep maintaining with soap and water followed by a wiped on varnish, which often keeps a wood surface looking great for years. Make sure there's no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I prefer using Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance layer. Lacquer is a quick drying sealer that more often than not must be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost everything shellac does, but they're easier to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coat that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry quickly, with little odour and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is the fact that they don't really require sanding sealers.

The odors associated numerous paints and stains can be more than simply offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs give a super hard coating but contain very high VOC levels. Water borne sealers, like the stains, match the performance of several solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water based sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the most common VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water borne sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have enough VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do tend to raise the grain. They will also set up or "flash off" quickly at temperature ranges greater than 60°F. The best working temperature for most water based acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a little more slowly. In this case, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to finish the drying process. A contractor I know once used water borne latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only apply it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water based polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, as well as others.

No-Fuss Stains and Sealers for Exteriors

Due to their better penetration and sealing ability, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel off as they get older, making them more challenging to maintain. A solid stain is similar to paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less and it is simpler to maintain as it ages. However, I prefer oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. A number of the better stains on the market include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains will often have more solids when compared to a typical exterior stain, which will make them stronger. I recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what's called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the major problem with outside stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for greater protection. A higher end deck stain won't require a different sealer coat, although you can add one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you think extra protection is needed to combat dampness and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for about $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Avoid using deck stains that contain silicone. Despite their low price, they aren't a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on the deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is the indication of a successful coating. However, silicon deteriorates quickly, usually in just a matter of months, producing a discolored, waxy coat that is a pain to eliminate. The broken down silicone also ceases repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on outside siding, nonetheless they are too soft to be used on your deck. Eliminating these coatings takes gallons of wood cleaner and way too much work.

Water based outside stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, incorporate the advantages of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip significantly less than oil based stain, and dry faster, allowing for two coatings the same day. Water based stains possess the resilience and flexibility of any latex stain, which gives them stamina. They're a good choice for most applications. But bear in mind that clearing up water borne stains needs work. You can find a couple of oil components in the solvent which have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your seller for specific cleaning guidelines for water based stains, and scan the label.

When In Doubt, Ask Questions

If you still have questions about which paint or stain to utilize, don't hesitate to ask people in the know. An experienced, educated salesperson can clear up any questions you might have. Look for a paint store with staff having at least a decade of experience in the business. Inquire further what has worked best for your unique application and ask to read a spec sheet on the merchandise in question.

The answers you get will rely upon whom you ask. A paint store will attempt to market you one of their products, after all, that's why they're running a business. Painting contractors may not be impartial, either. They need to sell their know-how. I get lots of cell phone calls from people wanting help with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't mind giving one hour of our time, but if you want comprehensive answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional examination. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral examination, depending on the traveling time included. A paid evaluation will tell you whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which covering might be best for finishing your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that require specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

High Demand Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job

The right kind of coating is essential. If you pick the wrong paint, it will not matter how much effort and money you may spend on your project. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because the wrong primer and paint were used.

A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing finish. If you're painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have a variety of choices if the surface is uncoated, but you still need to consider environment, maintenance, and sturdiness to find the best coating for the work.

Primers - What If You Could Start Painting in 1 Hour?

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It decides how well the top surface is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters about just as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you need to use a primer if you are covering a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the only time you don't have to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coat manufactured by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you may ever need and you might need help translating some of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top finish ends up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of convinced that primers are optional, or can be produced out of diluted paint.

Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places that have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second layer of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one will do. The house pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a job where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it a level base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another layer of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. In the event that you live near to ocean water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here is a tip: If you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, it is possible to speed up the painting process by minimizing the number of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)

Solution for Priming Interior Walls and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, such as the laundry room and shower, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal equally well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new buildings have enough vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top layer over latex primer.

Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to use. If the home doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the walls and keeps water from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers will be the response to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also acts as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You can warrant compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, remember that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are several primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish that you've planned.

Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old patterns are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.

Amazing Primers For Interior Wood

When selecting primer, you should consider the type and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect most of the wood trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables

Priming Solution For Exterior Applications

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a gentle detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you may need to hold back a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Primers For Metals

Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough attachment with the surface. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and may need more than simply thinner. Consult with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.

You can find primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from exposure to air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had good luck using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized material can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.

Much like any coating, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when you use an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any type of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is handy for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.

Primers For Masonry

Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 90 days before you apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and packed with lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's designed for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of cement. You are able to still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, especially when you blend the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it will splash and burn up anything it contacts. And blend it in the proper ratio, usually 1:3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well taken care of and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you may use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good shape, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I recommend a concrete stain provided by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My inclination is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top finish like latex.

Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top overcoat is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coating requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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Making an Accurate Estimate for Painting

 

Inspecting the Condition of the Existing Paint

 

When inspecting most paint jobs, I carry a scraper, a dusting brush, a clean rag, and sometimes a wire brush. I also use those tools to inspect the caulk, wood, trim, and substrata such as masonry.

 

An inspection of the exterior will turn up a wide range of conditions, from sound paint to paint that is cracked or peeling. Exposure to a wide range of temperature and moisture conditions will wear down any finish over time, no matter what the climate. The south side of the house might be weathered and peeling, while the north side only needs a good cleaning and touching up. Be sure to look for water damage from the roof or near the foundation where water might pool.

 

An interior inspection is the same: Search out weak areas where the paint has loosened or cracked, while also checking the paint that has held up well. Check around the windows for loosened putty, look for grease build-up in the kitchen and mildew in the baths, inspect the condition of the trim, and examine the walls and ceilings.

 

Even paint jobs a few years old may show signs of paint failure—areas of flaking, peeling, cracking, and blistering. Paint that’s covered with layers of grime actually may be in great shape, so first lightly rub an area to see what comes off. When a good paint or stain starts to go (at an average 8.5 years, although that figure fluctuates quite a bit), it gets a dull chalk on its surface. Chalking, or slight flaking of a semi-transparent stain, tells you that it’s time to recoat. If all the surfaces are chalking without more severe failure, you’re actually in luck. The whole process of recoating will take less work and paint.

 

Consider the Present Paint Condition

 

When launching painting projects, people often neglect to consider the condition of the existing finish. I recommend that you make a close inspection of the entire painting area, keeping the following questions in mind: How extensive will the project be? Is there any part of the existing finish that can serve as a match for the new finish? Is the existing finish in good enough shape to take another coat? Besides being full of surprises, this examination also will show you where to begin work.

 

When assessing the paint’s condition, I make a point of inspecting the surface underneath the paint. It’s not enough to notice where the paint is failing; any underlying problems must be addressed. A thorough examination of the existing conditions gives you a good starting point for the painting project and keeps re-dos to a minimum.

 

Planning a Job

 

There’s more to buying paint than picking a color you like. Every house painting project has unique features, from room size to neighborhood architecture that should be taken into account for your home to look its best.

 

Design considerations

 

Interiors and exteriors present different design issues. When choosing colors for the inside, you should consider the rooms themselves. Do they feature lots of woodwork, or hardly any trim at all? Do you want to make a small room look larger, or vice versa? Don’t forget to consider your furniture and carpeting or flooring, unless you’re starting from scratch and want the furnishings to match the walls. You may want a bright kitchen and a subdued dining room. You may want to give each room a distinctive color, or you might choose one color for the whole house. Your possibilities are endless, but give them some thought.

 

Paint sheens present another consideration. Sheens range from flat, the least reflective sheen, through eggshell, satin and semi-gloss, to glossy, the most reflective. I recommend a high-quality flat or eggshell paint for most rooms because it’s easy to maintain and touch up. A glossier finish is almost impossible to match, even with identical paint. The gloss fades over time, and not always evenly. A flat finish, on the other hand, has no sheen to fade.

 

Sheen can emphasize the different qualities of your rooms. Bedrooms usually look good with a “quieter” finish such as a flat or eggshell, whereas a dining room might benefit from a satin finish, which softly reflects light. Kitchens and bathrooms should be painted with a washable sheen such as a semi-gloss (flat latexes are hard to clean and tend to wash off). I’ve always found that a semi-gloss or satin finish sets trim off nicely. If you’d rather downplay the trim, use a flatter finish, such as eggshell. It’s a good idea to stay away from glossy ceilings. They attract too much attention and tend to diminish the size of a room.

 

When selecting exterior colors, you need to consider wide-ranging factors, including the style and roof of the house, surrounding colors, and the climate. Start with the roof: The new color scheme should match it. I can think of a few houses that have vibrant exterior paint, but never look quite right because the color doesn’t match the roof (until the roof is covered with snow).

 

Architectural styles also influence color choices. A Queen Anne-style house, with its many layers and patterns, will often have a shade and color for each architectural feature. In contrast, colonial styles usually have only one body color and one trim accent. But no law says you have to paint according to the style of house. You can choose to accentuate any favorite detail, whether it’s your front door or another focal point.

 

Roof, style, brick, and stone fall into the “constant” category. Constants are the parts of the house that don’t change often, and therefore are primary considerations in any color decisions. If you’re seeking the advice of a paint store, I recommend taking a few photos of your house along so a color professional can better evaluate your home’s constants.

 

Climate is a big consideration. You’ll notice that region influences many color trends, such as the sharper hues used to brighten up the muted light of the Northwest. Cool pastels are better suited to the harsher light and dry terrain of the Southwest.

 

If you live in a country setting, the landscape may help determine the basic tones for your exterior. If you live in a city, you may be influenced by your neighbors’ choices. Some neighborhood homes seem to be competitively individual in their design, while another neighborhood shares similar color schemes. What are the accent colors in your neighborhood?

 

Whatever criteria you use in your color decisions, beware of trends. Prevailing fashions may not suit you or the region where you live. The earth tones that swept the country in the late 1970s were designed to complement the countryside, but a lot of them ended up on urban houses, where they looked dull. Paint companies’ brochures often reflect the current trend. Remember that there are thousands of choices available, despite the emphasis companies place on certain hues or colors.

 

Narrowing your selection

 

Every paint store offers brochures, color chips, and color fans that feature combinations for every style and taste. Many stores have refined the selection process with programmable computers.

 

I’ve found that paint chips alone aren’t enough to help me make a good choice. The manufacturers’ brochures state as much, in small print at the bottom of the page, where they note that “the color of these chips may not perfectly match the paint you order.” That is because most brochures use color dyes, whereas paints are colored with pigments. About 80% of the people I work with say the color they get is darker than what they expected. For this reason, I recommend going a shade lighter.

 

Next, try out a quart of the color you like. Far too many homeowners rush out and buy gallons of what turns out to be the wrong paint, then blame the store. There are lots of reasons that paint can appear off-color, but color mixing is seldom one of them, especially if you go to a reputable store. That’s why, starting with a small amount is so important. The first color you pick isn’t likely to be the one you will keep, and you don’t want to be stuck with custom-mixed gallons you can’t use. It’s not uncommon to go through 8 to 12 quarts in the search for the perfect shade. That may sound like a lot, but considering how expensive color consultants are, spending $50 to $100 for the perfect paint is a good buy. You should be able to do more than just “live” with the color you pick: You should be happy with it.

 

Whether you’re matching an existing color or refining your selection, the process won’t be complete until you’ve verified your choice with a “brush-out.” 5 brush-outs let you see how the color you’ve selected actually looks before you invest in the total amount for the job. To do a brush-out, simply make one brush stroke from the mixed quart of paint on a detail or siding (or on a sample of that material). After the paint has dried (one hour for latex, two for oil-based paint), view it in different light and at different times of the day to see how you like it.

 

Brush-outs also are a good way to match touch-up paint. Touch-ups can be difficult because paints and stains age differently—some fade while others darken. Take a sample of the work to be matched to the paint store. Do yourself and the store a favor and take a big sample, not just a chip of the existing paint. Sometimes I’ll take a window, a cabinet door, or a piece of siding. That way, the newly mixed paint can be applied directly to the existing paint, blow-dried, and held up to the light for a match test.

 

Estimating the Project Size

 

If you’re planning on doing the painting yourself, your most important consideration probably will be the quantity of paint and material that you will need. The bulk of any estimate starts with measuring the total area of the paint project. To do this, you only need a tape measure, paper, and a pencil.

 

As you gain experience, you may notice other variables, such as the age and condition of the surfaces, figuring into the estimate. The more difficult estimates involve older structures that teem with “hidden agendas,” or minor repairs that turn into major undertakings. Blisters on exterior siding may be caused by water evaporation from un-insulated walls. A small plaster crack may reveal large separations between lath and plaster that need to be fixed with screws and putty. The more you know about the condition of the surface and paint, the fewer surprises you’ll have. Older houses can fool even seasoned pros, who estimate such mystery jobs carefully and often opt for a time and material contract.

 

Here are some easy formulas for estimating rooms, doors, fences, and other features.

 

Interior Estimates

 

To determine the area of an interior job, begin with the walls. Multiply the height by the length of the sides, and add the totals. Add the ceiling area to that total. Next, figure the area of the windows and doors: If the total is 100 sq. ft. or less, don’t bother deducting it from the wall area. If it’s higher than 100 sq. ft., subtract that number.

 

The “height-times-width” formula also works for trim, doors, and windows, if you take certain variables into account. If the door has four to six panels, double its area. If it’s a French door, the area should be tripled. Handrails and balustrades are estimated by multiplying the height by the length, then multiplying by four to get the total surface.

 

Contractors have a fast method of calculating wall and ceiling area that is almost as accurate as the process I’ve just described. Simply take the square footage and multiply it by 3.5 in rooms with an 8-ft. ceiling. For rooms with a 10-ft. ceiling, multiply the area by 3.75. If you’re painting a new house, you can simplify your estimating by asking the drywall contractors for the total area.

 

Exterior Estimates

 

The methods for estimating interior surface area can be used for some exterior portions of the house, including siding, doors, windows, and handrails. However, certain architectural features have their own formulas:

For smooth blinds, use the standard “length-times-width” formula. Double the area when computing slatted blinds.

 

Plain eaves, add 50% to the total area. For eaves with rafters running through, triple the area.

 

Plain cornices also get the standard measurement. Triple the area if they’re decorative or fancy.

 

For latticework, measure the area of the lattices on one side and multiply by four to get the total. Plain fences require a doubling of the area. Picket fences would be multiplied by four.

 

To make all your estimates as close as possible, then discuss them with an expert at a professional painting store. Hard and fast estimates are difficult to come by, even for professionals. If in doubt, round your figures up—it’s better to have too much paint than not enough. Extra paint will come in handy for eventual repairs and touch ups. Properly sealed and stored, paint has a long shelf life. Any lumps or rust that is due to oxidation can be strained out.

 

Estimating the Project Time

 

Figuring the time for a painting job is more complicated than estimating area. Contractors know that time estimates are an art that takes a while to perfect; underbidding the time factor is a major banana peel for non-professionals. A host of variables affect a time estimate, especially for older homes: the amount of set-up and preparation, structural repairs, the number of colors and coats, the types of doors and windows, and the type of surface. As the saying goes, it’s all in the details. New houses and additions have fewer variables because the surfaces are new. This makes estimating the time easier.

 

Windows and doors can take up to 65% of the time spent painting an interior or exterior. Although I may need only a few days to mask and spray the siding or walls, I always know that the trim— notably the windows—will take another week or two. The following estimates are for one side of doors and windows, including everything from preparation to the finish coat. Bear in mind that these are professional estimates and should be used as a reference point, especially if you’re new to painting. All you really need is a general idea of the time the project will take. Your focus should be quality, not speed.

 

Windows involve the most detail, so let’s begin with them. Repainting a well-maintained window that opens (either double-hung or operating) will take about 90 minutes. Older opening windows that need extensive preparation will take twice as long. Because fixed windows are one piece they only take half as long as windows that open will take. Vinyl window cladding is a low-maintenance exterior innovation. Most homes built before clad windows became popular in the 1970s have wood sashes that require much more upkeep.

 

A hollow-core, flat door should take from 90 minutes to two hours—about the same as a fixed window. A solid door with four to six panels will take the same amount of time as a double-hung or operating window, approximately three hours. Remember that doors also include the jambs and casing (the trim around the door). Many front doors have windows, which also add to the time.

Estimating the time it will take to paint any surface depends on how the paint will be applied. Although windows are usually brushed, doors and trim can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed, so the time required to paint them can vary.

The height of the house is an important exterior consideration. Due to the increased climbing and set-up time, a two- or three-story house takes longer to paint than a single-story house. A multistoried house also raises the question of whether to use ladder jacks or scaffolding, which take time to move and set up.

Time estimates are another area where a reputable paint dealer can help.

 

Estimating Costs.

 

Your area estimate tells you approximately how much paint and materials, such as caulk and sand-paper, you will need for the job. Every can of paint has a recommended spreading rate based on a surface that is “smooth, primed, and “non-porous.” Of course, not every surface fits that description. Although top rated paints generally have a recommended rate of 400 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon, I’ve found that most get closer to 533 sq. ft. per gallon. When estimating, it’s a good idea to subtract 10% of the recommended coverage. When spraying porous surfaces like stucco, I subtract another 15%—50 sq. ft. off my spread rate of 350 sq. ft. per gallon. Again, your trusty paint dealer can help you estimate porous surfaces.

 

Here’s a cost estimate for a typical interior room (I haven’t included an exterior estimate because the variables are simply too numerous)

A room that is 12 ft. wide, 16 ft. long, and 8 ft. high, or 630 sq. ft., with three windows and two doors, will take 4 gallons of paint. So, at $35 per gallon for a high-quality product, you can plan on spending $140 for paint. Other basic materials, such as caulk, masking tape and paper, spackle, thinner, and sandpaper, should bring the material costs to $160.

 

A professional would take about 16 hours to paint this room. The rates for labor range from $20 to $40 an hour, which would total $320 to $640—far more than the cost of paint and materials. According to the Decorating Contractors of America, only 8.3% of the contractor’s fee goes toward paint. The rest is overhead and labor.

 

Even painting one room your self would save you enough to buy top-of-the-line brushes, rollers, and other painting tools, and still come out ahead. I know plenty of people who buy low-end equipment to “get through” their one painting project for the year then throw everything away when the job is finished. That doesn’t make much sense, since they’ll eventually have to go out and buy the tools all over again. I’ve also found that low-end equipment gives low-end results and is depressing to work with. Professional-quality tools will give you professional results for years to come.

 

When you budget your paint job, don’t skimp on the top coatings, whatever you do. Many homeowners mistakenly think that a middle-of-the-road paint bought at a discount chain is good enough. However, cheaper paints contain no more than 15 ingredients, compared to anywhere from 40 to 50 for top-of-the-line paints. More (and better) ingredients allow high-end paint to go on smooth and thick and dry evenly. Their coverage also is superior: One $30 gallon of paint covers as much area as two $15 gallons, to within a few cents. This means fewer coatings and less work. Lasting power alone makes quality paints a better deal. They will last, on average, two years longer on exteriors, and two to four years longer on interiors.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
phone: 425-512-7400

      https://soundqualitypainting.com

 

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10 Interior House Painting Tips

Painter іn Lake Stevens: 10 Interior House Painting Tips.

 “Use thеѕе tips tо make уоur painting projects gо faster аnd smoother.”

Hеrе аrе 10 tips tо make уоur Lake Stevens paintingprojects gо smoother аnd faster whіlе giving уоu a professional-looking finish thаt you’ll bе proud оf. You’ll аlѕо fіnd ingenious tips thаt саn cut уоur cleanup tіmе іn half аnd extend thе life оf уоur paint brushes.

Painting Techniques Tip 1: Tо avoid lap marks roll thе full height оf thе wall аnd kеер a wet edge.

Roll thе full height оf thе wall…

Lap marks аrе thоѕе ugly stripes caused bу uneven layers оf paint buildup. Thеу occur whеn уоu roll оvеr paint that’s аlrеаdу partly dry. (In warm, dry conditions, latex paint саn begin tо stiffen іn lеѕѕ thаn a minute!) Thе key tо avoiding lap marks  whеn doing DIY wall painting іѕ tо maintain a “wet edge, ” ѕо еасh stroke оf уоur roller overlaps thе previous stroke bеfоrе thе paint саn begin tо dry.

Tо maintain a wet edge, start near a corner аnd run thе roller uр аnd dоwn thе full height оf thе wall, moving оvеr slightly wіth еасh stroke. Mоvе backward whеrе necessary tо еvеn оut thісk spots оr runs. Don’t let thе roller bесоmе nearly dry; reload іt оftеn ѕо thаt it’s аlwауѕ аt lеаѕt half loaded. Kеер thе open end оf thе roller frame facing thе area that’s аlrеаdу painted. Thаt puts lеѕѕ pressure оn thе open ѕіdе оf thе roller, ѕо you’re lеѕѕ likely tо leave paint ridges whеn doing DIY wall painting.

Tip 2: Mix ѕеvеrаl cans оf paint іn a large bucket fоr a consistent color thrоughоut thе room.

Mix paint іn a large bucket…

Paint color mау vary slightly frоm оnе саn tо thе nеxt. If уоu hаvе tо open a new саn іn thе middle оf a wall, thе difference mау bе noticeable. Mixing thе paints tоgеthеr eliminates thе problem. It’s best tо estimate thе аmоunt оf paint you’ll need аnd mix іt іn a 5-gallon bucket (a process called “boxing”).

Whеn coverage іѕ difficult tо estimate, add mоrе rаthеr thаn lеѕѕ whеn doing DIY wall painting. Yоu саn аlwауѕ pour thе leftover bасk іntо cans. Fоr large jobs, uѕе thе bucket аnd a roller screen rаthеr thаn a roller tray. It’s muсh faster tо load уоur roller wіth thе screen thаn tо uѕе a roller pan. Simply dunk thе roller іntо thе paint bucket аnd thеn roll іt аlоng thе screen untіl іt stops dripping.

Tip 3: Let thе paint dry thеn cut thе tape loose fоr a perfect edge.

Cut tape whеn paint іѕ dry…

Onсе paint іѕ dry, уоu can’t just pull thе tape оff thе trim. Paint forms a film bеtwееn thе wall аnd thе tape, аnd removing thе tape tears pieces оf dried paint оff thе wall. Sо bеfоrе pulling оff thе tape, cut іt loose.

Wait fоr thе paint tо completely dry fоr аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Thеn uѕе a sharp utility knife оr box cutter knife tо slice thrоugh thе film. Start іn аn inconspicuous area tо make sure thе paint іѕ hard еnоugh tо slice cleanly. If уоu cut thе paint whіlе it’s ѕtіll gummy, you’ll make a mess. Aѕ уоu cut thе paint, pull uр thе tape аt a 45-degree angle.

Tip 4: Paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling аnd walls.

Paint thе trim fіrѕt…

Pros usually follow a certain order whеn painting a room. Thеу paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling, thеn thе walls. That’s bесаuѕе it’s easier (and faster) tо tape оff thе trim thаn tо tape оff thе walls. And уоu certainly don’t want tо tape thеm bоth оff!

Whеn painting thе trim, уоu don’t hаvе tо bе neat. Just concentrate оn getting a smooth finish оn thе wood. Don’t worry іf thе trim paint gets оntо thе walls. You’ll cover іt later whеn painting thе walls. Onсе thе trim іѕ completely painted аnd dry (at lеаѕt 24 hours), tape іt оff (using аn “easy release” painter’s tape), thеn paint thе ceiling, thеn thе walls.

Tip 5: Prime аnd texture wall patches tо avoid a blotchy finish.

Roll оn primer оvеr patches…

Freshly painted walls оftеn look blotchy. Thе color іѕ uniform, but thе sheen isn’t consistent. Thіѕ usually occurs оvеr thе holes аnd cracks уоu patched wіth a filler оr drywall compound. Thе porous fillers absorb thе paint, dulling thе surface (a problem called “flashing”). Whеn light hits thеѕе dull spots, thеу stick оut like a sore thumb. Thе smooth patch аlѕо stands оut іn contrast tо thе slightly bumpy texture оf thе rеѕt оf thе wall. A quick coat оf primer іѕ аll іt takes tо eliminate flashing аnd texture differences.

Primer seals thе patch ѕо paint won’t sink іn аnd look dull. Tо match thе texture prime wіth a roller whіlе feathering оut thе edges. Choose a nap thickness tо match thе surrounding wall texture (a 3/8-in. nap roller fоr smooth walls; 1/2-in. fоr textured).

Tip 6: Clean dirty surfaces ѕо thе paint саn fоrm a strong bond.

Clean dirty areas bеfоrе painting…

If уоu paint оvеr dirty, oily surfaces, thе paint wіll easily chip оr peel оff. Sо bеfоrе painting, clean grimy areas wіth a de-glosser оr heavy-duty cleaner intended fоr pre-painting cleaning. Thеу work wеll tо clean painted, varnished оr enameled surfaces tо improve thе adhesion оf thе new paint. They’re ideal fоr cleaning greasy оr oily areas like kitchen аnd bathroom walls аnd removing hаnd marks аrоund light switches аnd doorknobs.

Wipe оn thе cleaner іn a circular motion using a lint-free cloth оr abrasive pad. Start аt thе bоttоm аnd work uр. Aftеr thе surface іѕ clean, fіll іn аnу nicks аnd holes аnd thеn sand thе filled areas smooth bеfоrе painting. Thе cleaners аrе available аt paint stores аnd home centers. Bе sure tо wear rubber gloves аnd eye protection.

Tip 7: Roll paint аlоng thе edges fоr consistent texture.

Roll оut paint near trim…

Corners аnd areas nеxt tо trim thаt аrе painted оnlу wіth a brush hаvе a noticeably different texture thаn thе surrounding paint. Tо ensure thе finished texture wіll bе consistent іn thеѕе areas, brush оn thе paint аnd immediately roll іt оut bеfоrе thе paint dries.

Uѕе a 3-in. roller wіth a nap that’s thе ѕаmе thickness аѕ thе roller used fоr thе rеѕt оf thе wall. Roll thе paint аѕ close аѕ уоu саn tо thе edges wіthоut bumping thе opposite wall оr slopping paint оntо thе trim. Finish brushing оn thе paint аnd rolling іt оut іn оnе area bеfоrе moving оn tо thе nеxt section.

Tip 8: Uѕе cotton drop cloths rаthеr thаn plastic.

Protect floor wіth cotton drop cloth…

Spills аnd spatters happen, regardless оf hоw careful уоu аrе. It’s a lot easier tо prepare fоr thеm thаn tо wipe thеm оut оf уоur carpeting оr оff уоur wood floor later. All іt takes іѕ canvas drop cloths іn уоur work area (a 4-ft. x 15-ft. cloth costs $15). Thе thісk canvas stays іn place, ѕо уоu don’t need tо tape іt, аnd уоu саn uѕе іt tо cover аnу surface. Plastic drop cloths аrе slippery tо walk оn оr set a ladder оn аnd don’t stay іn place. Evеn worse, paint spills оn plastic stay wet, аnd thеу саn end uр оn уоur shoes аnd gеt tracked thrоugh thе house. Canvas іѕ slippery оn hard floors, ѕо rosin paper ($10 fоr 400 sq. ft. аt home centers) іѕ better оvеr vinyl, tile аnd hard- wood. Tape thе sheets tоgеthеr аnd tо thе floor tо provide a nonslip surface.

But еvеn wіth canvas оr rosin-paper drop cloths, large spills ѕtіll need tо gеt wiped uр right away оr they’ll seep thrоugh. Clean spills wіth paper towels оr cloth rags. Likewise, іf уоu splatter paint оn аnу оthеr surface, wipe іt uр immediately.

Tip 9: Feather оut paint whеrе уоu can’t kеер a wet edge.

Feather paint wіth a dry roller іn large areas…

Yоu can’t cover large areas like ceilings, extra-tall walls оr stairwells іn single, continuous strokes, ѕо thе best wау tо minimize lap marks оn thеѕе areas іѕ tо feather оut thе paint аlоng thе edges thаt уоu can’t kеер wet. Thе thinner, feathered coat оf paint wіll avoid thе buildup thаt causes thе lap mark.

Tо paint a large section wіthоut leaving lap marks, roll thе nearly dry roller іn different directions аlоng thе dry edge, feathering оut thе paint аѕ уоu gо. Aftеr completing thе entire length оf thе wall оr ceiling mоvе tо thе nеxt section аnd paint оvеr thе feathered edges. Fоr thе second coat, apply thе paint іn thе opposite direction. Thіѕ crisscrossing paint application sharply reduces (if nоt eliminates) lap marks.

Tip 10: Sand trim bеtwееn coats fоr аn ultra-smooth finish.

Sand trim fоr a smooth finish…

Onе coat оf paint usually won’t hide thе underlying color аnd sheen оn trim. And іf уоu don’t sand thе surface smooth bеtwееn coats, thе finish mау hаvе a grainy texture. Fоr a smooth finish, sand thе trim bеfоrе applying еасh coat оf paint.

Sand thе trim wіth a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges gеt іntо crevices whеrе sandpaper can’t gо аnd let уоu apply еvеn pressure. Thеn apply thе fіrѕt coat оf paint аnd let іt dry аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Lightly sand іt аgаіn fоr a completely smooth surface аnd apply thе second coat. Aftеr еасh sanding, vacuum thе trim аnd wipe іt dоwn wіth a tack cloth tо remove thе dust.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
Phone: 425-512-7400
jason@soundqualitypainting.com

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