Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right kind of coating is essential. If you pick the wrong paint, it will not matter how much effort and money you may spend on your project. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because the wrong primer and paint were used.
A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing finish. If you're painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have a variety of choices if the surface is uncoated, but you still need to consider environment, maintenance, and sturdiness to find the best coating for the work.
Primers - What If You Could Start Painting in 1 Hour?
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It decides how well the top surface is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters about just as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you need to use a primer if you are covering a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the only time you don't have to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coat manufactured by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you may ever need and you might need help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top finish ends up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of convinced that primers are optional, or can be produced out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places that have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second layer of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one will do. The house pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a job where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it a level base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another layer of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. In the event that you live near to ocean water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here is a tip: If you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, it is possible to speed up the painting process by minimizing the number of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
Solution for Priming Interior Walls and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, such as the laundry room and shower, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal equally well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new buildings have enough vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top layer over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to use. If the home doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the walls and keeps water from getting between the surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers will be the response to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also acts as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You can warrant compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
With regards to walls, remember that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are several primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old patterns are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.
Amazing Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should consider the type and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect most of the wood trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables
Priming Solution For Exterior Applications
Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the residence does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a gentle detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you may need to hold back a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals
Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough attachment with the surface. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and may need more than simply thinner. Consult with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.
You can find primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from exposure to air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized material can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
Much like any coating, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when you use an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any type of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if blended at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is handy for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.
Primers For Masonry
Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 90 days before you apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and packed with lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's designed for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of cement. You are able to still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, especially when you blend the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it will splash and burn up anything it contacts. And blend it in the proper ratio, usually 1:3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well taken care of and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you may use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good shape, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I recommend a concrete stain provided by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My inclination is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top finish like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top overcoat is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coating requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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